You’re All In On It!

Customer comes in, complains that her 2002 Mercury Mountaineer is running hot. Check it out and the radiator is cracked and pouring coolant out as fast as you could pour it in. Simple enough job, replaced the radiator along with the upper and lower radiator hoses. Pressured tested, no other leaks, test drive is fine, pull the vehicle out front for the customer. She requested the old parts, because “She’s been scammed by shops before.” Put cardboard down in the rear of the SUV, and gave her the old parts. Customer pays and leaves.

The next morning, as I pulled up to the shop, the Mountaineer was parked outside, waiting for us to open. She was fired up, accusing me of stealing parts of her interior. Her main complaint was that I stole part of the firewall, allowing cold air to blow onto her feet as she was driving. I check the car out, and find the A/C set to cold and on the floor vent position. Her other complaint was that I had obviously stolen the piece that fits in the drivers door jamb to cover the gap between the door and the dash. No such piece exists. She is not convinced, by this time screaming that we are nothing but thieves and liars. My boss explains to her that there is no cover there and even showed her a similar model Explorer. She accused us of stealing the piece from that one also and “listing all the stolen parts on eBay.” She finally leaves, peeling tires the whole way out the drive.

Was it over? No. She repeated this two more times, showing up with a deputy sheriff the third time. He looked embarrassed to be there. He even explained to her that he owned an Explorer, there was no such piece, and that we were a reputable shop. She was not dissuaded, accusing us of paying off the police. My boss went above and beyond, offering to drive with her to the local Ford dealership and let them do a complete inspection, then he would pay for any missing interior pieces. This placated her, until the dealer told her that nothing was missing. She completely lost it and said that she was getting a lawyer and was going to bring down the whole ring (our shop, the county police, and the Ford dealer) because “we were all in cahoots.”

Once again, my boss went above and beyond, filling her tank and sending her to the Ford dealer an hour away, where we could have no influence. Same result, no problem found. She was livid. She left threatening to sue us for all we were worth. Last I heard, every local attorney had laughed her out of their office. Dealing with the public can get crazy sometimes…

Who Needs Brakes?!

I was working in an independent shop in 2010 when a customer called in saying he was getting a lot of noise from the rear brakes on his Chevy Colorado. He had done them himself about a month ago and said they had been making noise since the day he had done them but he was rolling on it anyway because it was “stopping fine”. I told him I could send a wrecker after it to be on the safe side and he said no he would drive it in.

He brings it in and we drive it into the bay and immediately hear some kind of god awful rattling coming from the rear drum, like something is rattling around in the drum. I also notice the pedal is extremely soft and I can almost push it to the floor. Pop the hood when we pull it in and there’s almost no brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.

Get it up in the air and pull off the wheel. The drum has something that looks like black silicone on the outside going across it in a random pattern. Brake cleaner and a chisel quickly takes this off and I realize the silicone was covering up cracks across the drum. He hit the drum so damn hard with probably a steel hammer he put cracks in a cast iron drum. I have literally never seen this happen.

I pull off the drum and all the hardware (pieces of them anyway, its all broken and torn to hell), shoes, and wheel cylinder fall to the freaking floor. Nothing is attached anymore. Other side is the same way. I tell our manager/owner and he calls the customer. I forget how much it was going to cost to fix both sides. A lot, probably in the realm of 700 or 800 bucks. Customer says no and he’s coming to pick up his car. He’s livid when he gets here. Demands we give him his keys he’s going to drive it off. Boss says no way am I giving you the keys to this vehicle, this cannot drive. My boss basically wants to wash his hands of this, and says he will waive all diagnostic fees and put this truck on a wrecker and have it dropped off at the customers house and put in his garage or driveway, at a cost of zero dollars to the customer as long as he signs a piece of paper acknowledging it is in an inoperable condition and must not be driven until repaired.

Apparently this isn’t good enough for this man so he calls the police to report a vehicle theft and told the police officers that he was at the shop where they had his car held hostage (his words, not mine).

Officer shows up 15 minutes later. We explain the situation and told the officer what we offered to do for the customer and showed him what the car looked like. Officer said this was not vehicular theft and that we were following state law in our actions and told the customer his car was not leaving until he signed the paper and agreed to what we offered, he was not going to put other motorists in danger for this guys bad decision. Either that or he can impound the car.

We have the car towed to the customers house after he begrudgingly signs, a $250 tow bill because the customer insisted on having the car in his garage like it was backed in, which required the tow truck driver to call 3 friends so they could push it up his sloped driveway tailgate first because the customer refused to let them start the car and back it in, using the excuse we gave that it was inoperable.

About 3 days later the car was towed in the body shop my boss also owned on another side of town. Captain douche nozzle had tried to drive it and made it down his street, ran out of brake fluid, brakes locked up and he hit a parked car.

To this day I have no idea how he drove it a month unless it was just never driven. I also don’t see how it ever stopped fine.

Nobody Puts Baby In A Loaner!

The number of bad customer stories I have is incredible. Advisors aren’t perfect people but we certainly don’t deserve the abuse we get from customers. We routinely get yelled at- not sternly talked to, I’m saying spittle flying out of the mouth screamed at- for ridiculous stuff. People call up and yell at us because we can’t find their car or tell them what’s going on with it… because they dropped it off at a place across town and called us for some unfathomable reason. We get yelled at because we can’t do the warranty repair/recall on their Ford…. at our Toyota dealership. People scream at us because they (without calling in advance) had the car their brother-in-law/neighbor/regular mechanic broke towed to us and we can’t get started on it IMMEDIATELY. People cry at us (in front of us, whatever) because they haven’t changed the oil for 20,000 miles on their 4 year old/80,000 mile vehicle and now the motor is shot… and it’s not under warranty.

In general most people seem completely unaware that other human beings with needs and wants exist and they get confused and angry when you point that out. Once I realized that and started giving explanations to customers that allowed them to pretend they’re the center of the universe my life got easier. Some of these people I have sympathy for and help out however I can, some get laughed at and hung up on, some get extremely poor service, and some just disappear into the mists. Probably back to JiffyMonkeyPlus where they had the work done in the first place.

My “favorite” customer of all time has four or five stories I could relate, all surrounding the catastrophic timing belt failure on her economy car. I’ll try to limit it to just one. She was told by us (the dealership) and her “real” mechanic to change the timing belt at 5 yrs/60,000 miles. She didn’t. At 65k it broke and damaged the interference head motor. The screaming and crying began and in the end her father (who lived overseas, which is pertinent because when the shot caller/checkbook is a late riser in a time zone 4 hours behind you there’s a “slight” lag in the decision loop) authorized the repairs and paid the bill. Of the three options available (new motor, used motor, rebuild existing) he chose to have the engine rebuilt which was the cheapest (but most time consuming) repair. When he FINALLY decided what he wanted to do and called to authorize the repairs I asked him if he wanted to replace any of the accessories. I specifically asked if he wanted to proactively, for additional parts cost only, replace the alternator and water pump. He said “No, this is already costing me a fortune and I just want it fixed as cheaply as possible. Only fix what’s actually broken.” I documented that statement in the paperwork…. ‘cause not my first rodeo. One month of pain and hate after that the car was fixed and gone and we had our loaner back… filthy, dented, and scratched, dog vomit coated in fur all over the back seat, dirty diapers stuffed in McDonalds bags alongside half eaten cheeseburgers in the trunk, cigarette burns on the passenger seat, almost 1700 miles on a car that had rolled off the lot with less than 25, and a low fuel warning light on.

Six months later she calls and before I can get my canned greeting out of my mouth starts screaming about how the car we fixed is leaking oil. We get it in and it’s actually leaking coolant from the failed water pump. I get her an estimate. She starts screaming about how that should have been replaced when we did the motor. I told her that her father had specifically declined to replace those and that said declination was noted in the paperwork I gave her 6 months ago. She screamed, and I quote, “My daddy would never do that to his baby!! F**K YOU!!!” and then hung up. 20 minutes after she hung up our dealer group general manager (not dealership GM, which is a crucial distinction to those of you in the industry) who’s number she had somehow obtained during the previous festivities called me and asked me why “that c**t” was calling him again. When I told him why and explained the repairs had been declined during the rebuild he said “Just fix it on our dime. I don’t want that b***h calling me anymore.” So we fixed it. I called her, she came in and (after only signing the paperwork when I refused to return her hot rod until she did) spent a few minutes telling me how incompetent I was and how crappy the entire dealership was, gave me the finger, and then burned rubber into the sunset.

The entire previous story is true and only encapsulates a small portion of my dealings with this delightful specimen. Welcome to my world. Although, to be fair, that was the worst customer I’ve ever had.

What’s Involved In Servicing Your Car’s Air Conditioning

By Zach Bowman

Summer’s imminent arrival means your vehicle’s air conditioning system is going to be under a serious strain before long. If you haven’t had your system serviced in a while, now’s the time. While most newer vehicles may simply be able to get away with having their A/C recharged, older cars and trucks may require a little extra attention.

If you think your A/C isn’t as frosty as it used to be, but it’s still blowing cold, the system may need to be recharged. While manufacturers used to use a type of refrigerant known as R-12, or Freon, researchers have found it is a leading cause of ozone depletion. As such, it’s illegal to use Freon in vehicles built after 1994. Now, manufacturers use R-134a to keep things cold in the cabin.

While you can technically recharge your vehicle’s refrigerant yourself, its best left to a qualified professional if you’re not confident in vehicle maintenance. All refrigerants have a tendency to displace oxygen, which means if you accidentally evacuate the system, the stuff could literally push the air out of your lungs. Not fun.

First Steps
Once you take your car in, technicians will measure the amount of pressure in your system, and if it’s low, they’ll add enough to get the reading within your manufacturer’s specifications. They will then run your car for a few minutes with the A/C on high and use a special thermometer to measure the system’s output. If it’s not within the necessary parameters, you may have a leak somewhere in your system.

Fixing a leak is trickier than you may think. Your technician will hook your vehicle up to a special refrigerant recovery system and drain any of the harmful gas from your car. At this point, the technician will inspect all of your air conditioning hard lines to make sure there are no obvious cracks. They may add a tracer dye to the system to help out. The bad news is that leaks are sometimes hard to find, and tracer dye isn’t necessarily a cure-all. The good news is, your expensive hard lines are usually made of aluminum and rarely fail. Instead, it’s likely one of your system’s components is the culprit. First up is your compressor.

The Components
An air conditioning compressor is usually driven by your vehicle’s serpentine belt, and as it spins, it pressurizes the system’s refrigerant. Simply put, it’s this change in pressure that cools the air coming into your cabin. An A/C compressor spins at a dizzying rate, and the more you use the cool side of your thermostat, the more likely it is to eventually fail or leak. One of the main differences between R-12 and R-134a is that the new refrigerant requires supplementary oil to be added to the system to make everything function. R-12 did not. If your compressor has run low on oil, it’s possible the interior seals have failed and you’ll need a new unit. Unfortunately, compressors aren’t cheap.

The best way to keep your compressor from failing is to have your A/C system serviced once a year, including the addition of the right kind of lubrication for your unit. If it does come down to replacing your compressor, most responsible shops will recommend going ahead and swapping out a number of periphery components at the same time. Why? The easy answer is working on an air conditioning system is about as much fun as sticking your hand in a blender. Twice. So to avoid draining your refrigerant, removing your compressor, installing a new unit and refilling the system with new cool stuff, only to have you come back in a week and say it’s still not cold enough, it makes sense to replace the necessary components. It keeps you from having to waste time and money, and it makes sure they get the problem solved the first time.

But before we get to all of the tiny bits and pieces that get swapped out during a normal compressor replacement, there is another possible culprit for a leaking system is your condenser. A condenser is basically a large heat exchanger, usually located in the front of your vehicle’s engine bay. It looks a little like a small radiator, and since it is exposed to oncoming air, it may get hit by debris as well. If your condenser has been struck by a rock or some other flying material, it may be your culprit.

If your condenser turns out to be ok, your technician may recommend swapping out a number of tidbits, including your receiver dryer, evaporator and expansion valve. If your head’s spinning, don’t worry. All of the pieces are essential to how chilly things get inside of your car. The receiver dryer, for instance, pulls condensation out of your refrigerant. This is important because when water mixes with R-134a, it creates a corrosive acid that will degrade your A/C system rapidly.

Your evaporator, on the other hand, is essential to the refrigerant’s change from a gas to a liquid. That change is essential to how well your system cools. If your evaporator isn’t functioning at max capacity, your A/C won’t either.

Similarly, the expansion valve acts as a gatekeeper, deciding how much refrigerant makes it into the evaporator. The more R-134a the system needs, the more the expansion valve opens. Obviously, if your expansion valve is not working properly, your air conditioning system is not going to be at its best.

Though a technician could theoretically remove and test each and every individual piece of your system, most of these parts have a similar shelf life. If one has gone bad, itís usually only a matter of time before another fails. Instead of having on-again off-again air conditioning, it’s usually best to simply take your mechanic’s advice and replace what he or she recommends.

—

Wes Marsh

Mike The Mechanic

Service Advisor

520-351-2061

mikethemechanictucson.com

The Truth About Extended Car Warranties

Written by – Patrick Bashman

Most of us know the feeling. Your car is no longer under factory warranty and you hear or feel something unusual in your car. The first thought that races through your head is your bank account balance going down. The second is finding a reputable repair shop and how long you’ll be without a car.

So you find a repair shop nearby and you take it in. Mixed in with the feeling of relief is the fear of being taken advantage of. “Yeah, your car needed a special hose that is only made in the top of the Himalayas by specially trained yak farmers. So although it looks like your typical $10 hose, it actually costs $500. But because I like you, I’m going to give it to you at cost for just $300.” Yeah, you know what I’m talking about. Another thing you noticed is all the new fancy computers that the mechanic now uses. In fact, the shops don’t look like the auto repair shops you remember. It looks more like a Best Buy Geek Squad counter with lights and displays everywhere.

In either case, the thought that keeps going through your mind is – If only my car was still under warranty.

Repair Costs Are Skyrocketing

Here’s a sobering fact. The average American household spends $3,269 a year on dealership maintenance and body shop repairs. If you purchased your new car on or after the year 1999, you’re in for a surprise to see your repair bills. Cars nowadays are not the simple machines they used to be. Today, new vehicles are loaded with complex technology and electronics. Not only have cost of repairs skyrocketed, so have the cost of just diagnosing the issue. The average cost to repair an air conditioning system for example is $825. Over the next five years repair costs are going to increase about 12% per year. That $825 air conditioner repair today could cost as much as $1,500 to repair five years from now.

Even newer vehicles can experience unexpected mechanical problems, and particularly today. Recent manufacturer recalls are proof of that. According to a recent JD Power study on the dependability of 3 year old vehicles, it was found that, across all brands, more than half of all cars have to have costly repair work done.

The Solution is to Extend Your Car’s Warranty

It’s not too late to get an extended warranty on your car, even if it’s been out of warranty for years. Commonly referred to as a Vehicle Service Contract, an extended auto warranty offered by third parties is the best bet to keep out of control repair costs in check. The manufactures’ factory warranty typically covers a vehicle for an initial period of time or for problems that are least likely to occur. For this reason, third-party service contracts offer protection against mechanical failures that are likely to occur just when the vehicle manufacturers have determined they will.

These vehicle service contracts are packaged in a similar manner to the original warranty offered by the manufacturer. You can purchase a set number of miles or a set number of years like 30,000 miles or 3 years. You are provided with a list of local repair shops that you can go to, and the rest works similarly to how factory warranties work. You won’t need to worry about what things will cost, or if the repair shop is overcharging you because everything is taken care of. In fact, like dealerships, some extended warranties even provide you loaners while your car is being serviced.

Conclusion

After looking at most common scenarios of what an average person will pay in auto repairs after a car is out of factory warranty, it makes sense to extend coverage. But it is important to understand what you’re getting into and especially what is covered and what isn’t. Like any other type of product that will last for years, it pays to spend 5 minutes going over what you get, what is excluded, and what other perks come along with it. Things such as roadside assistance, loaner cars, and trip interruption can be included or offered as options. But an extended auto warranty is something that everyone should at least consider.

5 quetions to ask before your next auto shop visit

Going to the auto repair shop can raise stressful questions, regardless of whether it is your first visit or your 20th. What’s wrong with my car? Does this repair or service really need to be done today? How much should the work cost? Is my repair or service going to be done correctly the first time? Out of all of the questions you may have about repairing and servicing your car, answering the questions below will do the most to help give you confidence in your shop and ensure that you have a hassle-free experience.

1. Is the shop I am considering high quality?

While reading online reviews can help you learn more about a shop, it doesn’t always provide enough information to really help you determine everything you need to know about it. A reviewer may have experienced good customer service at a shop, but they may not be in a position to assess the quality of the work under their hood.

To get more about of reading reviews, look for shops with reviews from large numbers of real customers. However, you should also search for signs of quality beyond reviews. Look for shops where all of the technicians on staff have National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certifications, and shops that provide warranties on all of their repairs. While no one sign is a foolproof way to tell if a shop is high quality, taken together these are great indicators that you are going to find experts who stand behind their work.

RepairPal Certified shops have been evaluated by our team of ASE Certified Master Technicians for expert staff, the right equipment and excellent customer satisfaction scores. Also, all RepairPal Certified shops stand behind their work with a minimum 12-month / 12,000-mile warranty.

2. What kind of shop should I visit?

Most automotive shops that specialize in mechanical repair may not replace auto glass, fix dents, or apply paint. Make sure that the auto shops you are evaluating specialize in the kind of work you have in mind. Currently, RepairPal certifies automotive shops for mechanical repairs only. This allows us to focus our expertise, insuring the most rigorous evaluations of shops.

You may also want to ask the shop if they specialize in your make of vehicle, as this likely means they have the correct tools and expertise to work on your car. RepairPal mechanic searches are always both zip code and make-specific so that the shop suggestions you receive are the best match for your vehicle.

3. What kind of work does my car need?

You don’t need to be able to keep up with an Indy 500 pit crew in order to explain what you think might wrong with your car. Shop staff should be able to walk you through a potential problem with your car based on your descriptions of how the car drives, sounds, and sometimes even how it smells! When in doubt, check RepairPal’s advice section for problem reports and recalls specific to your vehicle, and Q&A with our team of car experts.

4. What is the shop going to charge me?

While a shop likely cannot tell what is wrong with your car over the phone, they should provide you with an estimate, in writing, before work begins on your car. Ask the shop to contact you before going above this original estimate (this is the law in some states). If you are not sure whether the price at one shop is high, compare it against quotes from other shops or use the RepairPal repair price estimator to learn the fair price range for your repair or service for your car in your area.

All RepairPal Certified shops pledge to charge below the fair price published by our estimator. If you are at a shop that is not RepairPal Certified, make sure you understand how much of the cost of the work is parts and how much is labor, and determine if they will use original equipment manufacturer (OEM), aftermarket or refurbished parts. If you do not know the difference between these or which is appropriate for your repair, ask. All of these questions will help you get a sense of whether you are getting a fair price, or just a cheap one, which may mean you will receive shoddy work.

5. Can the mechanic clearly explain the work that needs to be performed?

Your mechanic should be able to clearly explain why all of the work performed is necessary, and how each impacted system of your vehicle operates. If a damaged part is being removed, ask to see it. If the shop indicates that your vehicle needs additional work beyond the scope of the repairs you originally came in for, ask if they need to be done today or if they can wait. A good shop will always be happy to explain their work to you and should be transparent about whether or not a repair or service is urgent.

Until your next visit to the auto shop, happy driving, and remember it’s always ok to ask your mechanic questions!

By Tai Nicolopoulos Google+ April 25th 2014

Summer is Just around the corner!

Hours spent in a hot, stifling vehicle can spoil a weekend getaway, vacation, or even daily commute to work. Conducting a periodic under-hood inspection may help you spot air conditioning problems before they spoil your trip.

Here’s what to look for: Note: Always be extremely careful any time you’re under the hood while the engine is running. Stay away from all rotating components with your hands, clothing, and hair, and always wear eye protection around a running engine.

1. Are A/C component mounting bolts in place and tightly secured?

2. Are caps installed on the A/C system service ports? This keeps out dirt, and also provides a seal for refrigerant.

3. With the engine running, does the compressor clutch engage when the A/C is switched on? If it doesn’t, this usually indicates a low (or empty) refrigerant condition, or an electrical problem. Also, listen for rapid clicking or cycling noises at the compressor when the A/C is switched on. If this is happening, it could also indicate low refrigerant or some other problems. Have it checked by your service technician. (Note: Some A/C systems prevent compressor clutch engagement in low temperatures, typically at or below 40° F.)

4. With the engine running and the A/C switched off, listen for knocking or rumbling sounds in the vicinity of the compressor. These could indicate a failing compressor clutch, and/or loose mounting hardware.

5. Check all belts for cracks, wear, and glazing. Have them replaced at the first sign of any of these conditions. Also, check for belts that vibrate while the engine is running and the A/C is on. This may indicate a belt that needs to be tightened, or a defective automatic belt tensioner.

6. Examine all A/C and cooling system hoses for cuts, abrasion, weak spots, and signs of leakage. Leakage from A/C system hoses is often indicated by an accumulation of dirt and oil, particularly at connections and fittings.

7. Make sure the condenser (in front of the radiator) is free of any obstructions, such as leaves or insects. This could reduce airflow, resulting in reduced A/C performance. You can rinse the condenser clean with a garden hose.

To learn more about your vehicle’s air conditioning system, visit www.mikethemechanictucson.com

Six Vehicle Warning Signs Your Nose Can Recognize

Most vehicles start out with a “new car smell,” but there are other specific odors that motorists should never ignore. Identifying these suspect smells early on can help car owners be car care aware and avoid the hassle and expense of an unexpected breakdown, says the Car Care Council.

“Unusual smells can be the sign of serious, and potentially costly, trouble for your vehicle. By acting quickly and making necessary repairs, you’ll be able to breathe easy knowing there is no harmful damage to your car,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council.

The Car Care Council recommends a sniff test of your vehicle to identify any unusual smells, including the following six warning signs:

1.  The smell of burnt rubber could be slipping drive belts or misplaced loose hoses that might be rubbing against rotating accessory drive pulleys. Do not reach in if the engine compartment is hot.

2.  The smell of hot oil could mean that oil is leaking onto the exhaust system. To verify the leak, look for oil on the pavement or smoke coming from the engine area.

3.  The smell of gasoline is likely the sign of a gas leak in some area of the vehicle such as a fuel injector line or the fuel tank. Any smell of fuel can result in a possible fire hazard, so immediate attention should be given.

4.  The sweet smell of syrup may be a sign that your car is leaking engine coolant from a leaky component related to the car’s cooling system. Do not open the radiator cap when it is hot.

5.  The smell of burning carpet could be a sign of brake trouble and a safety hazard. Have your brakes checked right away, especially if this smell is happening during normal driving conditions.

6.  The smell of rotten eggs is never a good one and, if you smell it coming from your vehicle, it could mean a problem with your catalytic converter not converting the hydrogen sulfide in the exhaust to sulfur dioxide properly. This smell can also be attributed to a poor running engine, causing the catalytic converter to become overloaded and fail due to meltdown.

“When you smell any peculiar odor, you should not ignore it. Instead bring your vehicle to a professional service technician that you trust to get an informed opinion on the nature of the odor,” concluded White.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org

Pot Hole Season Sucks!

As the ravages of winter subside and temperatures rise, there is probably a pothole out there with your name on it, cautions the Car Care Council. Record cold temperatures, snow and rainfall in many parts of the country have created the perfect storm for the motorists’ dreaded “perils of potholes period.”

Drivers know immediately when they hit a pothole. The heart-stopping, teeth-jarring noise is hard to mistake. However, it’s not always immediately clear if hitting the pothole caused damage to the vehicle, and to what extent.

Hitting a pothole can damage tires, wheels, steering and suspension, wheel alignment and more. The Car Care Council recommends that motorists who experience any of the following warning signs after hitting a pothole should have a professional technician at their local repair shop inspect the vehicle.

Loss of control, swaying when making routine turns, bottoming-out on city streets or bouncing excessively on rough roads. These are indicators that the steering and suspension may have been damaged. The steering and suspension are key safety-related systems. Together, they largely determine your car’s ride and handling. Key components are shocks and/or struts, the steering knuckle, ball joints, the steering rack/box, bearings, seals and hub units and tie rod ends.

Pulling in one direction, instead of maintaining a straight path, and uneven tire wear. These symptoms mean there’s an alignment problem. Proper wheel alignment is important for the lifespan of tires and helps ensure safe handling.

Low tire pressure, bulges or blisters on the sidewalls, or dents in the rim. These problems will be visible and should be checked out as soon as possible as tires are the critical connection between your car and the road in all sorts of driving conditions.

If you’ve hit a pothole, the Car Care Council can help you find a repair shop in your area. The council’s website features a “Find a Shop” locator

The Five Worst Car Investments

By spending money on maintenance and some upgrades, you can improve your car’s reliability and overall life expectancy. You can also reduce safety risks and expensive repairs. Changing the oil regularly, replacing worn-out tires, and getting your wheels aligned periodically are all no-brainers.

There are, however, some expensive upgrades that won’t increase a car’s value or performance. In fact, they will probably hurt them.

1. Aftermarket wheels

Aftermarket wheels can make a car look more sporty or luxurious than the factory rims. While they often cost thousands of dollars, aftermarket wheels typically don’t add to your car’s resale value, and can reduce the comfort of your ride. When you install larger wheels, the low-profile tires reduce the cushion between the car and the road. As a result, you can expect to feel more vibration as your travel over cracks, potholes and road debris.

2. Custom paint job

It’s great to strive for originality with your vehicle, but a custom paint job can be a risky and expensive proposition. To start, a quality repaint of an entire vehicle will run you at least several thousand dollars. The professional labor and materials necessary to entirely repaint a car properly don’t come cheap. Aftermarket paint jobs are seldom as good as factory originals, and once the car is painted, there’s no going back.

3. Dark tint

Installing dark tint can provide privacy and keep the bright sun out of your car. However, in many states dark tint is also illegal because it obstructs the driver’s ability to see the road. Tint can be installed for several hundred dollars, but make sure to research your state’s laws before visiting the local tint shop. If the film is too dark, you could be paying several hundred dollars more to remove it without damaging your vehicle.

4. Custom seats

Aftermarket seats can provide an accent for your car’s interior and sometimes reduce the car’s weight. There are some little-known benefits to keeping your original seats, however. Modern cars come with sophisticated safety features to protect drivers from all sorts of different collisions. Often, the seats contain important sensors and electronics that activate airbags and other safety devices. Removing the factory seats can diminish the effectiveness of potentially life-saving technology.

5. Exhaust systems

Vehicle owners swap out factory exhaust systems for a number of reasons. Some exhaust systems advertise more power or create a deep growl when the vehicle accelerates. Installing such an exhaust system can be risky because some of these don’t meet the same quality standards as the vehicle’s manufacturer. Poor-quality exhaust systems can emit excess heat and corrode prematurely. Failing an emissions test due to a poor-quality exhaust modification can be very costly.

Plus, those loud systems won’t make you too popular with the neighbors.

Stan Markuze is the founder of PartMyRide, the online marketplace for used original auto parts